Exfoliation and Peels
Skin exfoliation is one of the single most overused treatments. Exfoliating the skin has far-reaching benefits; however, depending on what is used to exfoliate and how often it's done, will determine how well the skin performs. When we over exfoliate we can strip and injure the skin to the point of irritation and dryness. Also, not all exfoliation is created equal! Below, beginning from the mildest to deepest, is a list of some common exfoliation types.
Exfoliation Options
Plant enzymes - Bromelain from pineapple and Papain from papaya are most common. Enzymes gently “digest” dead skin only. Safe use is 1-2x per week depending on skin condition.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids - AHAs- Lactic Acid, Glycolic acid, Mandelic Acid are examples and come in varying degrees of concentrations. Lactic acid from milk sugar is the gentlest AHA. Safe to use 1-2x per month, depending on the concentration and skin condition.
Beta Hydroxy Acid - There is only one, Salicylic Acid (SA), from birch. Unlike AHAs this acid penetrates and exfoliates deep into the pores. This is why SA is so commonly used in acne products. SA is a wonderful exfoliate but is typically and drastically overused which leads to dryness, irritation, stripped skin and, in many cases, more breakouts. Safe to use 1-2x per week depending on skin type, condition, age and the concentration of the acid.
Peels- these should always be performed by a skilled professional who specializes with peels. Depending on the chemical and concentration of the peel product, and skin condition, the results can sometimes cause very deep exfoliation and peeling, which requires skilled attention and follow up. Peels should never be overused as they literally cause an insult, wounding the skin, to bring about skin rejuvenation. Personally, I do not offer peels. I can speak more about this in person.
I will finish by suggesting that you generally avoid physical exfoliants. These are the gritty, scratchy types of treatments that abrade the skin. They are too rough on skin and cause micro tears.
